Thursday, September 18, 2008

Got to go to Caia now…

So training week has been quite something to observe. All the troops come home so to speak and a flurry of activity ensues to ensure that they are fully ready to be deployed back into the field. Despite having near 2 weeks off following a 12 week rotation, (of 10 on and 4 off) the vehicles only come back with the demining teams leaving the maintenance department with effectively 2 days to assess all filed driver complaints and complete any scheduled maintenance activities as required based on the observed mileage or hours clocked on the machines. The language barrier makes me feel like I have my hands cut off, and I think to date I have likely been responsible for a net reduction in productivity as I am constantly asking poorly constructed questions, or requiring intervention from one of the “more bilingual” individuals.
On average I would say that 1 in 15 Mozambican individuals speak English at a functional level, with “functional” being actually somewhat technical for my purposes here. This is based on my experience and observations and is likely biased as I am working with a foreign NGO, in the south of the country. One might then expect that the average is actually lower across the board but I suspect that I speak far too quickly, and am often asking seemingly odd questions about their day to day activities. If given the option I would likely not let on to speak any English either! All that is to say it is tough going to get the specifics you are looking for, and whenever I find myself with time to spare I am back to studying to try and come up to speed.
Not a lot of time on my hands as off of late as training week also saw the transfer of duties between technical advisors visiting the Mozambican operations, Zac and Olivier have handed off responsibilities, the former to the latter, at this position and continue to tour, suggest, inquire and generally help out where required with training or logistical planning issues. Both of these guys have extensive military experience and then a number of years working in Humanitarian de-mining efforts. So many of the people I have met in the HI organization have wild stories of their tours in war torn regions around the globe. It seems like all of the scariest places or times reported in the popular press have been visited by at least one of the folks I have met over the last couple weeks.
For the coming 3 months Olivier and I are sharing accommodations through the end of his tour here. He is a good laugh, speaks French, Portuguese, and English and generally makes my life easier. (for example he was able to explain to the gardener/guard that we don’t need the yard swept a 415am every morning, swish, swish, swish, swish, had been my daily wake up call until this point)
I question how much shared accommodation we will actually see as we both have requirements to head into the field and actually see the operations at work. The current plan has me catching a ride to Caia (Kaya) on Friday to see the third Tempest which is currently blowing fuses regularly. As I understand it there is also an issue with the axle of the five tonne 4wd truck used to transport the Tempest. I have observed some questionable maintenance practices since being here, largely born out of necessity but nonetheless inexcusable, wiring fuses together across the terminals for example, sure it saves you a dollar and maybe gets you home but…. It is a fuse,,, on purpose,,,, ya?
Anyhoo some pictures from the casualty evacuation exercise, and dog drills during training have been added.
In the mean time I had a request for a run down of local cuisine. I have only found one traditional dish and that is Matapa, a delicious combination of dark green leaves (cassava? Pumpkin? Spinach like anyway) and mild spices. Usually served with a side of rice and laced with small shrimps or chunks of crab. The other day it had a whole crab still in shell, cut up and cooked inside the matapa. I am not sure if this was intended as a joke or not, but imagine trying to eat crab fished out of a spinach soup with any grace. Not happening. Anyhoo there are 6 or so bakeries in Inhambane so bread is a staple, in burger bun size or half length baguette. At the restaurants you can get almost all foods although meat is relatively expensive. For the most part I have stayed with the grilled fish, grilled prawns, or fried calamari but the chicken piri-piri (spicy) is worth trying as well. An egg sandwhich is my typical breakfast, although I recently found some local wild honey which is like a hyper-sweet alfalfa honey, a little margarine on bread, mmmmm. The local fruit is cheap, and you can also get imported fruit from South Africa although the price jumps four fold.
On the way to the beach, and on the edge of town there are large expanses of gardens growing vegetables of all varieties. The crazy bit is that it is a tidal area so the canals are filled twice daily with sea water. I intend to take a wander through this area but am waiting for either more language skills or someone to offer to show me a round. It is really quite beautiful from the road and I am intensely interested to understand the irrigation systems employed there (who me?, a geek?).
Anyway, I expect to be in the North for a week or so, taking lots of photos, Caia is located on the banks of the Zambezi so that should provide some vistas.
Adeus for now.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Oh My!! Do be careful. Mom

Greg Rideout said...

Hi there - keep the blog updates coming, great reading. You missed a great NE garage sale, much the same kind of day as when you sold stuff here a few years ago!